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The Washington Post
A new theater for Enzo Fargione
By Tom Sietsema Wednesday, Dec. 14, 2011
It has been so long since a new restaurant opened with linens on its tables that the sight of cloth covering surface at Elisir
is alone something to applaud. But the arrival of three house-made
salts and a trio of Italian olive oils with a choice of multiple breads
broadens my smile as well.
Fine dining in Washington might be dormant, but it's not dead. And
here to help prove it is Enzo Fargione, 42, who last fed
restaurant-goers at Teatro Goldoni downtown. His current strategy in
Penn Quarter brings together seven- and 10-course dinner tasting menus,
priced at $75 and $95, respectively; an 80-seat dining room whose back
wall gives a diner the illusion of being in a giant bottle of champagne;
and multiple video monitors that let the audience in on some of the
kitchen action. Most of the servers wear dark suits.
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