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Rustic and high-tech coexist in chefs' open kitchens
May 28, 2012
By David Hagedorn for The Washington Post
Look closely into the open kitchens of Washington’s Elisir, Mintwood Place and Rogue 24, and Baltimore’s Wit and Wisdom. You’ll spot excellent visual representations, side by side, of two recent trends in American restaurant cookery: the emergence of modern technique and the rebirth of rustic, home-style cooking.
At first, traditional chefs bristled at notions of de- and reconstructing dishes. They scoffed at science-lab gadgetry, such as cream whippers dispensing lobster foams; “outboard motor” circulators; and smoking tanks dispensing liquid nitrogen.
But then a shift occurred, within the past decade.
