Jont

Time is the big theme for Ryan Ratino’s 18-seat tasting counter, which will open above his restaurant Bresca. His ingredients—dry-aged quail, miso, spruce-tip vinegar—will require a lot of it. Given the proper time to ferment, Ratino explains, the results are “mind-blowing.” If you don’t have the couple of hours for the 8-to-11-course menu, Jônt will also offer à la carte “guilty pleasures” in its 35-seat lounge. Expect a mix of approachable highbrow (affordable caviar service) and elevated lowbrow (dry-aged beef-and-heritage-pork hot dogs).